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ISHS Acta Horticulturae 995: VII International Congress on Cactus Pear and Cochineal

EFFECT OF THE PROCESS OF DYEING A NATURAL FIBER FABRIC USING WATERY EXTRACT OF COCHINEAL

Authors:   G. Arroyo-Figueroa, G.M.L. Ruiz-Aguilar, A.L. Vigueras-Guzmán, L. Portillo, H. Arroyo-Figueroa, G. González-Sánchez
Keywords:   carmine, Dactylopius coccus, natural pigment, textile industry, mordanting
DOI:   10.17660/ActaHortic.2013.995.51
Abstract:
A natural ideal pigment to replace the synthetic colorings and to be used in textile industry is the insect Dactylopius coccus Costa. This pigment is generally used for artisanal textiles. It is necessary to carry out research that allows the employment of this natural pigment in textile industries. With the aim to determine the effect of the dyeing process in cotton fabric, using as pigment the extract of cochineal, eight tests of dyeing were carried out changing in each one the concentration of the mordant used during the process. The eight dyed fabrics were analyzed in a scan electronic microscope. Also the original fabric without any process was analyzed, the washed fabric and the pre-mordanting fabric in their three phases (1st, 2nd and 3rd mordanting stages). No differences were observed between the micrographies of the fabric after the stage of wash with regard to the original fabric; nevertheless, there were differences between the micrographies from the first phase of mordanting up to the stage of dyeing, with regard to the original fabric. On the other hand microscopic difference did not differ among each of the fabrics dyed in eight tests. At the same time, in order to observe other differences among the eight fabrics, their colors were measured and absorbance was determined. Presenting the major dark-red tone, the fabric dyed with the process of test 3, and this fabric allowed crossing a medium intensity of light. The dyed fabric that allowed crossing the minor intensity of light was that obtained with test 5, being very close to the result of test 8.

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